Showing posts with label Kashan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kashan. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Jejak Bumi Parsi : 20 - MARANJAB : Underground City of Nushabad | Shrine of Hilal ibn Ali

Serious aku rasa minah tu dah bawak aku ke tempat yang salah. Takkan sejauh ni sedangkan kalau tengok dalam map aku dah keluar daripada area asal.

Masak la aku karang.

Kembali semula ke pekan Kashan

Aku dah sampai area dekat Kashan Bazaar tu semula. Memang sah dah silap.

Tengah aku berjalan kaki tepi tepi kedai tu tetiba aku dengar orang bersembang cakap English ! Dan tindakan refleks aku terus je pusing dan tengok.

Eh !

Rupa rupanya Kim K kat situ tengah berborak dengan sorang mamat Iran ni !

Oh my god !!!

Terus je aku bagitau minah yang bawak aku tadi tu yang aku OK dan ucapkan terima kasih dan aku pegi dekat Kim K. Dia pun terkejut tengok aku. Tapi lepas tu aku cerita la dari mula cemana aku buleh tersesat sampai ke sini dalam pada nak cari dia dan akhirnya memang terjumpa dia kat sini ! Mujur lah !

Since dah jumpa Kim K kat situ dia pun bawak aku terus balik ke hostel dia sebab dia nak ambik beg dia. Plus dia janji nak jumpa host dia kat hostel tu.

Hostel Kim K. Memang aku melepasi entrance hostel ni tapi tak perasan tulisan.

Tunggu sekejap dan tak lama lepas tu host Kim K yang nak bawak kami ke Maranjab ni sampai. Dan tanpa membuang masa, aku, Kim K, host dia mamat Iran ni dan 2 orang awek Siam bergerak meninggalkan Kashan untuk trip Maranjab kami.

Apa dia trip Maranjab ni?

A trip to the sand dunes of the Maranjab desert, a salt lake and a caravanserai is on the list of many Kashan visitors. It can be combined with a visit in the small town of Noushabad with its underground city (a shelter people dug to take refuge from the Mongolian invaders) and the mud castle and the Holy Shrine of Helal Ali in the town Aran va Bidgol. It is also possible to have an overnight stay in the caravanserai arranged, but don't expect too much comfort; also it can get pretty crowded with tourists during high season; 30$ per person including taxi ride .

So biasanya trip ni akan cover laluan Kashan dan singgah  di Underground city of Nushabad - Aran va Bidgol sebelum meneruskan perjalanan ke Maranjab Desert dan bermalam di sana.

Untuk trip ni aku bayar USD 35 seorang kepada host local Iranian yang bawak kami ni. Nama dia Waheed. Harga dia charge kami mahal sikit tapi trip kami include dia akan bawak ke Abyaneh Village yang mana spot yang aku memang wajib nak pegi plus dia akan hantar aku sampai ke Qom nanti sebelum aku ke airport untuk ambik flight balik ke KL malam esok.

Kira agak berbaloi lah harga yang aku bayar ni.

Waheed

Kami memulakan perjalanan meninggalkan kota Kashan dan terus ke Nooshabad City lebih kurang 10 KM jaraknya.

Di sini kami akan melawat Underground City of Nooshabad 

Menangis tak leh masuk rumah. Maybe kena denda duduk luar oleh mak dia kot

Entrance Underground City of Ouyi

Baca ni.

Underground City Of Ouyi, Nooshabad city (10 km north of Kashan),  9:00 - 17:00. Labyrinth of of the tunnels consisting of three underground floors. Originally it was dug as a shelter to hide from the summer heat, but later was used as a hiding place at times of enemy invasions. Currently only couple hundred meters is accessible for the public out of total 4 km tunnel. 200,000 rials. 

Di bawah tangki air ini lah di temukan underground city tersebut.

Entrance dan turun tangga ke bawah

Laluan dalam underground city

Tiket masuk. IRR 200K

Kami di beri penerangan oleh minah Iran ni. English dia tersangkut sangkut tapi she was trying so hard to explain.

Aku tak berapa nak ambik port. So pasal underground city ni boleh baca di sini....

The underground city of Ouyi (Noushabad) in the northern Kashan - Isfahan province - is considered one of the masterpieces of ancient architecture. as Noushabad city is located in the region of central desert of Iran, its weather is quite harsh. during the day Noushabad has a very hot temperature and during the nights it gets pretty cold. 

The reason why this city is called Noushabad (meaning the city of cold tasty water) is because in the ancient times one of the Sassanian kings who were passing through this area stopped here to drink water from a well and he found this water extremely clear and cold. Therefore he ordered to build a city around this well and name it Anoushabad which eventually turned into Noushabad. A few months ago in the Civiltect website we introduced another underground city which was located in the south of Australia. It was explained that the main reason for this underground city being built was to escape from the daytime high temperature of the region. However the main reason underground city of Noushabad was carved stemmed from the fact that in the past this region was quite insecure and by forming an underground chain of passages beneath the entire city, the inhabitants would shelter there in the time of being attacked. And also through these passages they could reach any spot of the city without being seen. 

The depth of this underground city varies from 4 to 18 meters and the different spaces formed by carving the rocks seem a little scary! To reach the underground city there were several different openings. some of these openings were located inside the houses of people and some others were located in important gathering places such as the main fort just outside the city. People could live in the underground passages and room for several days without the need of going outside. 

There are three levels in this underground city and these levels were cleverly planned in a way that going to the different levels required moving from down to up. This made it easier for the people sheltering in the underground city to prevent enemies from getting to the upper levels. Another interesting feature of their architecture was the curvy passages that made it possible for the inhabitants to ambush enemies. Furthermore there were several other tricks that were used to resist against the enemies, for instance digging deep holes in the middle of the rooms and covering it with rotating stones that would fall down if anyone stepped on them. 

Noushabad is located about 10 kilometers north of Kashan

Usha sikit gambar dalam underground city ni.

Lubang dan laluan keluar masuk rahsia

Laluan.. Agak sempit juga membawa dari satu ruang ke ruang yang lain

Ada tempat yang dikhaskan untuk dapur, ruang ruang tertentu termasuk la tempat di mana askar dan pegawai tentera menunggu musuh musuh yang melepasi masuk ke dalam kawasan underground city ni

Jamban pun ada ! Hehehe

Selesai usha kawasan Underground City of Nushabad, Waheed nak bawak kami makan. Tapi kami decided nak bungkus je dan makan di perjalanan.

Singgah beli makanan

Masa di pekan tu ternampak bangunan yang lawa jugak so kami mintak nak masuk sekejap.

Holy Shrine of Helal Ali yang terletak di Aran va Bidgol town.

Agak terkesima jugak tengok bangunan ni dari arah luar jadi kami nak singgah. Tak de ramai orang time tu jadi agak mudah untuk kami masuk.

Enrance luar

Bangunan utama holy shrine di berhadapan dengan courtyard

Mendekati ke ruang bangunan utama shrine 

Gerbang yang bertatahkan kaca berkilauan

Pintu masuk bertatahkan keemasan

Baca ni.

The Shrine of Hilal ibn Ali (also known as Imam zadeh Mohammad Al Awsat) is a mausoleum in Aran va Bidgol (a village located about 10 kilometers north west of the city of Kashan) Situated in Mid North Iran.

Hilal ibn Ali is believed to be buried in this holy Shrine. Just outside the mosque are graves of martyrs died during the war Iran fought against Iraq (1980- 1988). 

The Shrine of Hilal ibn Ali is covered with an elaborate decorative and colorful overlay. In Aran va Bidgol there are several holy shrines and mausoleums that belong to prophet Muhammad’s offsprings

Hilal ibn Ali was the son of Ali who was the cousin and son-in-law of the prophet Muhammad/

Ukiran di gerbang luar

Daun pintu 

Laluan ke ruang utama

Seni dalaman

Seni ukiran Persian

Ruang dalaman

Pintu

Dan ini lah makam Hilal ibn Ali

Nak tau sapa Hilal Ibn Ali ni.. Baca ni...

Hilal ibn Ali (Arabic: هلال بن علي) known as Muhammad al-Awsat (Arabic:محمد الاوسط, the middle Muhammad) was one of the sons of Ali. His mausoleum was established in Aran in Kashan in Isfahan province, Iran.

His mother was Umamah bint Abu al-'As. Hilal was born on 1 Ramadan, 14 AH (18 October 635 CE). Nothing is known about his life other than his role in the Battle of Karbala. He had a brother named Awn who lived in Syria or Taif, modern day Saudi Arabia.

The governor of Khorasan, Qays ibn Murra, feared an uprising against his rule, and sent a strong army to fight followers of Hilal; Hilal was injured and many of his followers killed.

It is said that he wrote shortly before his death of a dream, in which his grandfather Prophet Muhammad, his father Ali and his half-brother Hussein ibn Ali have seen it pointed out that she waited on him. He should be fasting [saum] the next day with an apple break. He reported on the following day his dream to his companions named Yakub and his son and announced that he had in the evening would be their guest and in the night to die. He spent the rest of the time so that his offspring and prepare for its remaining obligations to fulfill. The night began with a night prayer [salat ul-layl] and during the defeat of [sadschda] he died. After the ritual bath, Ya'qoub and his sons buried his body where now stands a shrine—a place of refuge for friends and followers of Ahlul Bayt, the pure members of the Prophet's Household

Agak terkesima jugak aku kat dalam ni. Lagi lagi tak de orang so aku took my own sweet time dok usha kawasan dalam shri ni. Sampai terlupa orang lain dok menunggu aku.

Mineret di Shrine of Hilal ibn Ali

Tempatnya luas dan besar.

Mungkin tak sehebat Shrine di Shiraz tempoh hari, tapi tetap unik dan tersendiri..............

Setiap kali masuk shrine setiap kali aku terfikir tentang kemegahan pembinaannya. Lagi nak relate dengan logik akal, aku end up tak temui sebarang jawapan yang memuaskan hati.

Biarkan saja semuanya tergantung sepi. Bukan tugas aku untuk menghakimi semua ini. Tanggungjawab aku adalah untuk terus yakin dan percaya  pada apa yang aku percayai dalam hati sendiri.



Cukup disini perjalanan kita
Menghukum Diri mendera hati ini
Terhimpit Dengan suasana

Berat rasanya sukar diluahkan
Bernafas Ragu menghembus pilu
Perasaan Ini tergantung sepi

Dibiarkan begitu saja
Terikat namun tak bertali
Mencuba menyimpulkan mati
Namun Terputus jua

Berat Rasanya sukar diluahkan
Bernafas Ragu menghembus pilu
Perasaan Ini tergantung sepi

Dibiarkan Begitu saja
Terikat Namun tak bertali
Mencuba Menyimpulkan mati
Namun Terputus jua

Disiksa Hati yang menagih
Harapan Kasih yang menjauh
Terpisah Dalam kekalutan
Jiwa Yang digantung sepi

Dibiarkan Begitu saja
Terikat Namun tak bertali
Mencuba Menyimpulkan mati
Namun Terputus jua

Mencuba Mencuba menyimpulkan mati

Dibiarkan begitu saja
Terikat Namun tak bertali
Mencuba Menyimpulkan mati
Namun Terputus jua

Disiksa hati yang menagih
Harapan kasih yang menjauh
Terpisah dalam kekalutan
Jiwa yang digantung sepi

Dan perjalanan kami di teruskan ke destinasi seterusnya.. Maranjab Desert yang terletak 60 KM dari pekan Kashan.

Kenderaan kita orang. Waheed memang sewa pick up ni sebab laluan ke Maranjab Desert agak tak elok jadi kena bawak kenderaan yang tahan lasak.


Where are you going Meng?


Tandus

bersambung....................

Monday, June 19, 2017

Jejak Bumi Parsi : 19 - KASHAN : Sultan Amir Bath House | Tabatabaie House

Masa kecederaan !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Aku tak leh lama lama berbual dengan mamat tu. Ada lokasi lain aku kena tuju.

"Thank you for your time. I hope you can understand my English"

Dia cakap. Dan aku jawab.

"Can ! No problem.... I sell you pantun now......"

If there ever is a pond in vicinity
We could possibly bathing till remain
If there ever is a longevity
We could possibly be meeting again

"Can I buy? I want to buy. I want to buy"
"No time to buy... bye bye !"

Hahahaha.... aku chong je dialog busuk semua tu kecuali ucapan terima kasih dia. Bersungguh dan gembira hati betul dapat berbual dengan orang asing in English. English dia memeng terkedek kedek. Aku nak faham pun susah, tapi aku harap lama lama dia boleh jadi fluent !

Dari Agha Bozorg Mosque tu aku menapak ke tempat lain. Jalan laju laju. Eh ! Patutnya aku bonceng naik basikal dengan mamat tadi tu. 

* mati lah ranap terkepak dua basikal tu.

Mamat tu dah tak tau kat mana. Aku jalan sendiri jer.

Salah satu bangunan di pinggir jalan di Kashan

Masjid lain

Jalan laju laju

Sebabnya aku tak pernah pegi mana mana bath house kat Iran ni. So memang aku reserve nak lawat satu daripada bath house ni dan Kashan adalah tempat pilihan aku. 

Apa benda bath house ni? Bath house ni sebenarnya tempat orang dulu dulu lepak lepak mandi mandi, berkumpul dan bersosial. Kiranya kalau zaman sekarang di panggil SPA.  Tak tau lak dulu ada massad massad ke tidak.

So memang di Kashan aku nak lawati Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse. Dari pembacaan orang kata tempat ni lawa so meh kita usha !

Berpusing pusing jugak aku nak mencari tempat ni.  

Patut aku masuk ikut laluan tu

Tapi termiss dan terlajak...

Nasib baik sempat kembali ke jalan yang lurus. Jalan yang di redhai. Tu pun tanya orang lagi.

Ke mana kan ku tuju?

Akhirnya jumpa pun entrance dia.

Sampai jua akhirnya

And it is not free. Nak masuk kena bayar walaupun bukan datang nak bermandi manda.

Baca sini.

Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse (Persian: حمام سلطان امیر احمد ‎‎, Hammam-e Sultan Amir Ahmad), also known as the Qasemi Bathhouse, is a traditional Iranian public bathhouse in Kashan, Iran. It was constructed in the 16th century, during the Safavid era; however, the bathhouse was damaged in 1778 as a result of an earthquake and was renovated during the Qajar era. The bathhouse is named after Imamzadeh Sultan Amir Ahmad, whose mausoleum is nearby.

Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse, with an area of around 1000 square meters, consists of two main parts, Sarbineh (the dressing hall) and Garmkhaneh (the hot bathing hall). Sarbineh is a large octagonal hall, which has an octagonal pool in the middle separated by 8 pillars from the outer section. There are four pillars in Garmkhaneh, which make smaller bathing rooms all around as well as the entrance section to Khazineh (final bathing room) in the middle. The interior of the bathhouse is decorated with turquoise and gold tilework, plasterwork, brickwork as well as artistic paintings. The roof of the bathhouse is made of multiple domes that contain convex glasses to provide sufficient lighting to the bathhouse while concealing it from the outside.

Di Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse ni ada 2 benda yang menarik. 

Pertama adalah bumbungnya...............dan kedua adalah bathhouse tu sendiri. 

Harga tiket IRR 150K. Pejam mata lah bayar jer. 

Aku naik ke bumbung dulu.

Roof domes

Sultan Amir Bath House

Bumbung ni dah semacam jadi gambaran yang sangat ikonic untuk kota Kashan ni

Tapi tak even, hati hati takut terpeleot kaki

Tak de apa sangat kat atas bumbung tu, tapi kena lah naik dan tengok sendiri. 

Di Iran ni ada panduan yang patut di ambil tahu. Sebarang pintu di rumah mahupun di mana pun, akan ada tombol yang berbeza dan ada tatatertib untuk mengetuk pintu rumah orang.

Ini tombol untuk lelaki

Ini untuk perempuan.

Bezanya? 

Bunyi tombol lelaki dengan tombol perempuan berbeza. Jadi tuan rumah akan tahu yang datang tu lelaki ataupun sebaliknya. 

Kalau yang datang tu Pondan.. tak payah ketuk pintu.. sound je.

"Nyah.... Mak datang ni !!"

Pastu masuk ikut pintu belakang !!

So jom kita masuk ke dalam bath house ni.

Baca Bismillah dulu sebelum masuk and then baru leh layan gambar kat dalam ni.







Aku pun tak tau nak describe cemana tapi memang WOW lah tengok interior dia, decorations, tiles apa semua tu memang kira benda yang jarang kita dapat tengok.

Dalam dia ada ruang ruang tertentu tapi tak de lah besar mana. Dan time tu macam ada satu geng pelancong lain so dia dah conquer semua sudut dalam tu. Susah orang lain nak ambik gambar.

So kalau berkesempatan lawat lah mana mana satu bath house di Iran ni. Memang lain daripada yang lain. Memang macam untuk golongan bangsawan je.

Satu lagi kat Kashan ni benda yang nak kena lawat jugak adalah traditional Persian residential. Rumah rumah agam orang kaya kaya satu ketika dulu kini menjadi tarikan pelancong ke Kashan bagi melihat senibina dan arkitekturnya.

Ada few Persian Historical House ni tapi aku pilih Tabatabaie Residence sebab terletak tak jauh dari Bath House tadi tu.

Kena pepandai cari dan tanya orang. Entrance masuk turut di kenakan. Macam Tabatabaie ni entrance fees adalah IRR 150K

Tabatabaie Residence.

A large house with several courtyards, which once belonged to a wealthy merchant. Experience how well the wind towers work. It consists of delightful wall paintings with elegant stained glass windows and includes other classic signatures of Traditional Persian residential architecture such as biruni and andaruni.

Lepas bayar tiket tu, ikut laluan masuk akan membawa ke kawasan courtyard.

Courtyard 

Ada kolam

Center

Ruang ruang tertentu

Design dan dekorasi dinding Tabatabaie Traditional Persian Residence

Jangan nganga sangat. Baca ni...

The Tabātabāei House (Persian: خانهٔ طباطبایی‌ها Khāneh-ye Tabātabāeihā) is a historic house in Kashan, Iran. It was built in the early 1880s for the affluent Tabatabaei family.

It consists of four courtyards, wall paintings with elegant stained glass windows, and includes other classic features of traditional Persian residential architecture, such as biruni and andaruni.

It was designed by Ustad Ali Maryam, architect of the Borujerdis House and the Timcheh Amin od-Dowleh. The house is almost 5,000 square meters and has been very well renovated. The interior yards have beautiful gardens. The house also has 40 rooms,4 courtyards,4 basements,3 windwards.

Saah satu ruang yang menarik di sini adalah Five Door Room.

Di sebalik dinding yang di bina ini menghasilkan corak warna yang indah setiap kali matahari memunculkan diri

Cahaya matahari memasuki cermin berwarna lalu menghasilkan corak indah pada lantai bilik

Macam di Nasier Al Mulk Mosque di Shiraz . Lawa tapi kena time pagi je la dapat tengok ni.

Di samping tu ada juga ruangan lain yang lebih personal kepada pemilik rumah tradisional ini.

Ukiran sangat details

Corak corak dekorasi memenuhi setiap inci bilik

Dan setiap dinding mempunyai dekorasi yang tersendiri

Dinding bilik

Ruang ruang lain yang lebih kepada pameran

Tabatabaie Residence

So boleh la singgah nanti.

Selain daripada Tabatabaie Residence ni ada jugak residence lain yang lawa jugak kot. Macam Abbasian House, Ameri house dan Boroujerdi ha Residence. Semuanya dekat kawasan yang sama dan tiket dia boleh Combo beli 1 tiket untuk masuk lebih daripada satu traditional house ni. Tapi harga lain skit lah.

Kat luar kawasan tu ada orang jual jual juga

Macam dah terlebih masa spent kat sini so aku kena gerak cepat cepat ke hostel Kim K sebab dah janji nak jumpa dia di sana. So aku follow map aku tu dia bawak ntah ke mana mana.

 
Jalan ikut celah celah rumah orang

Masuk lorong lorong. Tak nampak orang pun

Last sekali terpaksa tanya orang. Dia macam faham tak faham. Aku lak main follow je sebab aku ingat dia faham. 

Anak dia asyik toleh belakang je tengok aku

Last sekali jauh gila berjalan. Aku bajet mesti dah salah ni. Tapi bila aku tanya dia, dia asyik tunjuk ke depan.

Memang tekaan aku tepat. Dia salah faham. End up aku sampai semula kat Kashan Bazaar tempat pertama aku pegi pagi pagi tadi.

Argh !!

Jam dah hampir pukul 1 tengahari. Dah janji dengan Kim K. Jangan aku lewat, nanti dia orang ingat aku mungkir janji dan tak nak join dia orang.

* sigh



Telah lama ku rasa sebegini,
Meniti masa silih berganti,
Ku harapkan engkau datang ,
Kepadaku walau sekadar mimpi...

Ku coba untuk mengejar kamu,
Makin ku genggam ia terlerai
Sedari Diri kian menjauh,
Jauhh... Terpisah dari diri kamu,

Biar hatiku menanti,
Biar ku terus menunggu,
Di dalam kegelapan hariku, tanpa cinta kamu..

Biar jiwa terus mati, menanti janji kamu,
Biar aku jadi 
Penunggu...

bersambung.......

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...